This is quite exceptional because not many brands go through the effort (and cost) of obtaining this type of certification for a quartz movement. Generally, they are deemed accurate enough, rendering the COSC certification as something stating the obvious. Breitling’s approach is different, as their focus on crafting ‘instruments for professionals’ also means that their performance is verified by an independent authority. COSC is quite rigorous in its approach toward quartz movements, which must be thermo-compensated and fully encapsulated against any form of moisture. Quartz movements that want to earn a chronometer certification are tested for 13 days in one position, during which they are exposed to three different temperatures and four different humidity levels, all combined with stringent tolerances. Breitling met this challenge by introducing the SuperQuartz movements at the beginning of the new millennium. Thanks to the aforementioned thermo-compensation and capsulation against moisture, these movements are about 10 times as accurate as a regular quartz movement.

As quartz is a way of life for Breitling, next to their still numerous offerings with mechanical movements, this has also resulted in quite a few watches that have earned quite the reputation. Many of them combine an analog time display with digital screens. This allows them to offer additional functions such as multiple time zones, alarm and chronograph. The Aerospace is a great example of this, and it is also a watch that Breitling continued to evolve over the decades that it is part of its collection. Another memorable watch is the Emergency, which has a similar look as the Aerospace but combines this with a built-in distress beacon. While these additional functions don’t add, or take away, from the performance of the quartz movement, they do display what more is possible. For Breitling, quartz technology is simply another way to meet the needs of professionals.

Patek Philippe’s Passion for Precision 

One comment I often hear is that ladies prefer quartz over mechanical, as you can just grab these watches, put them on, and they are always right on time until you have to change the battery again. Whether this is true or not depends on the lady, and quite frankly, I also know quite a few avid mechanical watch collectors who are male and also prefer to have one or more quartz watches at hand for that exact same reason. The fact of the matter is that quite a few watches for ladies are fitted with quartz movements.

In some cases, the quartz movement is also part of the legacy. At the turn of the millennium, in 1999, Patek Philippe launched the Twenty~4. This rectangular, bracelet-style watch offered a timeless sense of feminine elegance and would become one of the pillars of the Patek Philippe collection. Offered in both stainless steel and precious metal, it had a casual flair that still makes it very contemporary. While Patek Philippe has since added round-shaped mechanical watches to the collection, the rectangular Twenty~4 is still going strong, with a row of diamonds flanking each side of the dial. This is perhaps also a great example of a timepiece where a quartz movement is right at home. While some still might prefer a small manual-wound movement of sorts ticking inside, the quartz caliber is more aligned with the character of the watch, also testified by the success of the Twenty~4.

This is not the only collection in which Patek Philippe offers quartz movements, as the Nautilus and Aquanaut are also available powered by a battery. They are fitted with Caliber E 23-250 S C, and like F.P. Journe, brands like Patek Philippe do not abandon the standards they hold high when making a movement with a battery. This particular caliber consists of 80 parts, with eight of them being synthetic rubies, also known as jewels. While they play an important role in mechanical watches to limit friction in the moving parts, there is much less movement inside a quartz caliber. That brands like Patek Philippe still utilize them is a sign of quality, going that extra mile to make something good even better. We also see this with the bridges on Caliber E 23-250 S C. They are chamfered and decorated with Geneva stripes, obtaining a look and finish similar to that of Patek Philippe’s mechanical movements.

Quartz movements also have a few benefits up their sleeves, and Patek Philippe is also taking advantage of those. In general, a quartz movement can more easily be made slimmer than its mechanical counterpart with the same functions. A slimmer movement means that you can also create a watch whose case is not as thick as it otherwise would have been. This can offer increased elegance and wearing comfort. Patek Philippe also fitted the Aquanaut Luce with Caliber E 23-250 S FUS 24H. This movement is made along the lines of Caliber E 23-250 S C, but showing two time zones simultaneously combined with a day/night indication for the home time through a window at 6 o’clock. This turns the Aquanaut Luce into a convenient and stylish travel watch. Its added complication is an interesting one and shows that quartz movements have proven their added value in the world of haute horlogerie and earned their place.